![]() I didn't want to create a thick wall where the window was. On the wall to the left, which has a window, we left the original vertical strapping in place, put foam insulation between the boards and then vapour barrier/drywall. I presume it is a way to provide a flat smooth surface to then apply lathe and plaster to as well as provide a modicum of air sealing. I'm no expert in old masonry methods, but on the interior of the brick walls there is a skim coat of plaster/cement material. Probably spend that saved time clearing up the mess tearing a plaster wall down creates though Thank you for your suggestions, we really appreciate it. We got the 3rd idea as well but professional drywall's said its not recommended as in future if plaster start peeling off or crumbles, then it gives load to drywall and then drywall becomes bad and cracks. it's just strange when you start drilling into it or hanging frames. you'll lose a bit of space but it looks quite good. a 3rd option that people do and whoever lived at my place before me did in one of my rooms, is to put up drywall over your lathe and plaster. if i re-insulated the inside, i would immediately need to strip and insulate the outside otherwise there's going to be major major problem. My house isn't brick as it as wood siding (and aluminum siding layered over top from the 50s or 60s or 70s). if you seal up one side of your walls airtight, you can trap moisure in there. Remember vapor barrier didn't exist back then and houses weren't sealed air tight like they are today. THis is also your opportunity to do wire runs which will cost you. Once you open them, you're going to need to repair some old 2x4's, re-plumb a lot of stuff. i've looked at the walls as they're in terrible shape but it's way too much of a bad bad hole you'll be going down. I've upgraded the wiring and the plumbing. Even the scrap bits that were too short to do anything useful with were good- as kindling.I have a 120 yr old home with lathe and plaster. We have used them to build garden trellises and other crafty stuff. The plaster has to go to the dump, unfortunately, but the lath strips, if you save them into long enough pieces, can be useful. Even my professional nail gun wouldn't touch them. If the studs are hardwood like ours are, you'll be predrilling and screwing to get those 2x4's sistered on. That's too far for drywall for it to be stable and solid-feeling. A lot of the older homes were built 24" on center. ![]() if your existing studs are further apart than 16" on center, then add in some studs between them. Sister some 2x4's onto the existing studs, and attach the drywall to those. It is an exercise in futility putting drywall on studs where plaster had been. Many nails would break off when I tried to extract them. I nicknamed it "The Big Ole Bust-It-Up Bar". Did I mention some of the boards have branches still sticking out of them? It really is like they chopped down whatever trees were there and made boards whatever size the trees were. Most of the studs are hardwood and not any particular size. We bought a 150 year old pile of a house, which is partially drywall over log cabin, and partially plaster. "Also learned that the framing under plaster walls is not suitable for drywall."
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |